Of all the watch complications available, the perpetual calendar is no doubt one of the most revered. And among all high-end watch models, the Royal Oak remains one of the highest sought-after timepieces money can buy. So, when you combine the iconic Royal Oak with the illustrious perpetual calendar complication, magic ensues. Let’s take a closer look at the spectacular yellow gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar from the 1980s.
Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendars
A perpetual calendar watch accounts for the varying days of every month as well as leap years; therefore, once set, a perpetual calendar will not require any manual adjustments on the part of the owner until the year 2100 (the next time the leap year will be skipped).
Audemars Piguet is well known for its collection of perpetual calendar watches, starting with its first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1948. However, it wasn’t until 1984 that Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.
Since then, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watches have grown immensely in terms of popularity and collectability.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25654
The ref. 25654 is a vintage Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar reference, produced from the 1980s until the 1990s. It was actually the third Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar series, following the references 5554 (also known as 25554) and 25636. Audemars Piguet only made 800 examples of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25654: 422 in yellow gold, 272 in stainless steel, 72 in two-tone, 33 in platinum, and one in white gold.
This particular model is a stunning yellow gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25654BA, complete with a matching champagne dial. It’s also one of the earliest examples of the reference 25654 as denoted by the smaller “Audemars Piguet” font on the dial. Later examples would include a bigger “Audemars Piguet” inscription with the “A” and “P” letters larger than the rest.
The watch features a 39mm monobloc case that’s a mere 9.3mm thick. In true Royal Oak fashion, the octagonal bezel is punctuated with eight exposed screws, crafted in contrasting white gold on this particular model. Adding to that striking contrast is the high polished finish of the screws juxtaposed with the brushed finish of the yellow gold case and bracelet.
Like most Royal Oak watches, the Perpetual Calendar 25654 is paired with the legendary Royal Oak integrated bracelet with two rows of inner links. Crafted entirely in 18k yellow gold, this bracelet is expertly finished with a mix of brushed surfaces and high-polished beveled edges. The bracelet is equipped with an AP logo-shaped single folding clasp with a trigger release.
The dial is home to four subdials: the date at 3 o’clock, the moon phase at 6 o’clock, the day at 9 o’clock, and the month at 12 o’clock. There is also a mix of applied round and stick hour markers in yellow gold, in addition to the matching gold center hour and minute hands. The blue hands on the subdials, as well as the blue moon phase display, provide a subtle touch of color to an otherwise monochromatic face. One of the defining features of these vintage models is the lack of a leap-year display — Audemars Piguet would only start including that on Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watches from the mid-1990s onwards.
AP Caliber 2120/2800
This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is powered by the AP Caliber 2120/2800, based on the famed Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 920 ultra-thin automatic movement. The Caliber 2120/2800 has been credited for saving Audemars Piguet during the tenacious quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s.
This perpetual calendar movement has a power reserve of 48 hours, operates at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour, and displays the time, date, day, month, and moon phase. The Caliber 2120/2800 inside the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25654 is shielded by a solid yellow gold caseback, complete with the “ROYAL OAK” engraving.
A Collector’s Favorite
Offering an appealing combination of technical mastery, striking design, and precious yellow gold, the rare and historically significant vintage Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25654BA is a watch collector’s favorite. It’s the product of an era when Audemars Piguet doubled down on complicated mechanical watches despite the onslaught of the quartz crisis.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars are simply one of Audemars Piguet’s greatest watch models and the reference 25654BA is a fantastic example of the model’s early years.
Gray & Sons is proud to have this vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 25654 in stock and ready to ship.