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Like every edition of Baselworld, the watch industry looks to see what new models Patek Philippe unveils. Widely considered to be the most prestigious watch brand, what this Genevan watch manufacture does is significant to the luxury watch market as a whole. Furthermore, this year was an important one for Patek, due to two significant anniversaries and some technical innovations to announce. But most importantly, the fantastic collection of Patek watches presented is yet another slew of ultra luxury watches to covet. So with that, let’s have a look.


Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G

Among the two anniversaries, one that Patek is celebrating is the 20th anniversary of the sporty Aquanaut collection. To commemorate the two-decade milestone, Patek Philippe launched the new Aquanaut Ref. 5168G. The new Aquanaut is an 18k white gold model in a new 42mm “Jumbo” size. Both the material and the size are a first for the collection and a big departure from the original stainless steel model that came onto the scene 20 years ago.

Aquanaut Ref. 5168G Patek Watch
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G (Image courtesy of Patek Philippe)

What’s more, the dial now sports a blue gradient color scheme rather than one solid hue. Keeping in line with the aesthetics of the collection, however, are the Arabic numerals, luminous hands, and date window at 3 o’clock. Flip the new Aquanaut Ref. 5168G around and we see the familiar 324 SC automatic movement via the sapphire caseback. Finishing off the sporty look is the “tropical” style midnight blue composite rubber strap.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Time Travel Ref. 5650

Another new Patek Philippe Aquanaut presented at Baselworld 2017 is the 18k white gold Aquanaut Time Travel Ref. 5650 “Patek Philippe Advanced Research”. A mouthful of a name, this limited-edition (500 models) piece boasts two major technical innovations. The first is a new Spiromax balance spring with an upgraded geometry, which ultimately improves the rate accuracy to only allow a deviation of -1/+2 seconds per day. The second innovation is the “flexible mechanisms” concept on the time zone setting mechanism.

Aquanaut Time Travel Ref. 5650 Patek Watch
Aquanaut Time Travel Ref. 5650 (Image courtesy of Patek Phillipe)

This new concept not only reduces the parts needed to construct the device, but also eliminates friction and the need for lubrication. In fact, the new construction of the time zone mechanism is proudly on display thanks to the cut-out of the dial at 9 o’clock. So when the wearer decides to change the time zone using the pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock, the mechanism can be seen in action.

New Patek Philippe Calatrava Watches

Patek’s other important celebration is the 40th anniversary of the famous ultra-thin automatic Caliber 240 movement. In fitting honor, the brand released four new Calatrava timepieces all housing the Caliber 240. The first of the Patek watches is the new Calatrava “Squelette” Ref. 5180/1R with an open-worked skeleton dial housed within the 18k rose gold 39mm case. The second is the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6006G with a 39mm 18k white gold case with an off-centered small seconds subdial between 4 and 5 o’clock on the black dial.

Four new Calatrava Patek Watches
Four new Patek Philippe Calatrava models (Images courtesy of Patek Philippe)

The third is a new Patek Philippe ladies’ Calatrava Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4899 with a 35.8mm 18k white gold case and engraved mother-of-pearl dial, all sumptuously adorned with diamonds and pink sapphires. The fourth and final is the new Patek Philippe Calatrava “Azulejos” Ref. 5089G with a pair of exquisite enamel dials that pay tribute to azulejos—the famous Portuguese ceramic tile art.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G

Big news at the Patek pavilion at Baselworld 2017 was the debut of their new Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G. A noticeably vintage-inspired model, the new Patek watch has a 40mm case in 18k white gold. On the creamy lacquer dial, sits all the windows of the perpetual calendar function—the day and month under 12 o’clock and the date and moon phase display at 6 o’clock. A perpetual calendar function allows the watch to keep accurate date and time (almost) perpetually, accounting for the different days of the month, in addition to leap years. The only time it’ll need adjusting is in 2100 when the leap year is discounted.

Patek Watch Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G (Image courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Driving the new Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar watch and all its practical features is the automatic Caliber 324 S Q with up to 45 hours of power reserve. Rounding out the elegant look of the Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G is the hand-stitched chocolate brown alligator leather strap with large square scales and an 18k white gold fold-over strap.


Pre-Owned Patek Watches

While these new Patek watches from Baselworld 2017 are certainly beautiful pieces, if you’re in search of a wider variety of models at discounted prices, then look no further than Gray & Son’s inventory of pre-owned Patek watches. We pride ourselves on being a leading online retailer of secondhand Patek watches.

We carry the brand’s most popular models including used Patek Philippe Calatrava, secondhand Patek Philippe Perpetual and Annual Calendars, like-new Patek Philippe Aquanaut, and previously-owned Patek Philippe Nautilus watches.

Not only are each of our products guaranteed authentic by a team of specialists, but they’re also cleaned, serviced, and restored as needed by certified watchmakers. Therefore, every pre-owned Patek Philippe timepiece sold by Gray & Sons is backed by our one-year international warranty and our “Like New for Life” policy.


Written by

Celine Simon

Celine is a freelance luxury watch writer who has enjoyed working in the horology industry for over ten years. Like many of the high-end timepieces she writes about, she comes from Switzerland—the heart of fine watchmaking. From Singapore to Montreal to Geneva to Dubai, Celine has lived all over the world but now calls Southern California home.