Not just a chronograph, the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Chronograde actually combines six different functions together in one exquisite mechanical timepiece. Let’s get a closer look at this highly complicated luxury watch by Swiss manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer to discover what the Patravi Chronograde offers.
The Origins and Evolution of Carl F. Bucherer
Based in Switzerland, Carl F. Bucherer is one of the very few watchmaking brands still in the hands of the founding family. The company was founded in 1888 when Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened a watch and jewelry store in Lucerne. One of his sons trained to become a watchmaker while the other became a goldsmith–two skills that proved to be imperative for the company to produce watches under its own brand name.
The first Bucherer watch was unveiled in 1919 and by 1968, Bucherer had manufactured over 15,000 certified chronometers. Since quartz movements were deemed the next big thing in horology by the late 1960s, Bucherer joined the CEH consortium (along with other brands like Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and many others) to develop the first Swiss series-made quartz movement, which resulted in the famed Beta 21 movement. And in 1970, the very first quartz powered Bucherer watch was introduced.
Today, the Bucherer Group, which is one of Europe’s largest watch and jewelry retail chains, is owned by the founder’s grandson, Jörg G. Bucherer. And the watchmaking arm of the company was officially repositioned as the Carl F. Bucherer brand (often called C.F.B.) in 2001, complete with the debut of the Patravi watch collection. Carl F. Bucherer currently offers five families of watch models: Manero, Patravi Adamavi, Pathos, and Alacria.
As one of the few independent Swiss watch brands today, a sizable portion of Carl F. Bucherer’s watch movements are made in-house (at the manufacture the Bucherer Group purchased in 2007) many of which boast intricate mechanical innovations and complexity.
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Chronograde
The Patravi (which means “I have achieved” in Latin) is Carl F. Bucherer’s flagship watch collection where the brand flexes its technical innovations and modern designs. C.F.B. first introduced the Patravi Chronograde model in 2007. It was the world’s first watch that combined the time display, a flyback chronograph, a large date display, an annual calendar, a power reserve indicator, and a retrograde hours counter for the chronograph. In fact, the name of the model takes its name from the combination of “chronograph” and “retrograde” to make Chronograde.
This particular version, the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Chronograde ref. 00.10623.03.33.01, features an 18k rose gold case that measures a generous 44.6mm in diameter and 14.1mm in height. In striking contrast to the warm tones of the gold case is the rich black dial, which houses a pair of oversized skeletonized hands–also in rose gold.
On the dial we see the 30-minute chronograph counter and running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, respectively. Above them sits the oversized double date window, elegantly encased within a curved frame. Tucked in between 4 and 5 is the month indicator, magnified by a lens right above it. Adjacent to the month is the watch’s power reserve display, which indicates when the automatic CFB 1902.1 caliber is running low on its 42-hour power reserve. Finally, arching from 8 to 7 o’clock is the retrograde hours counter where its hand moves through a semi-circular scale with each passing hour that the chronograph hand is activated. Once the retrograde hand reaches the end, it instantly springs back to its starting position and starts again.
Like the dial side of the watch, the caseback of the C.F.B. Patravi Chronograde is also furnished with a sapphire crystal for a view of the movement inside the watch. The timepiece is finished off with a hand-stitched Louisiana alligator leather strap, fitted with an 18k rose gold folding clasp.
Sporty, elegant, practical, innovative, and luxurious, the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Chronograde in rose gold is a handsome modern luxury watch that would make a fantastic addition to any watch collection.