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Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085
Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085

While the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Aquanaut watches need no introduction, there is another lesser-known sea-inspired sports watch to consider. Named after the Roman god of the sea, the Patek Philippe Neptune 5085 sailed into the scene in the late 1990s. While the watch is no longer in production, it displays some unique design traits and a superb movement. Let’s dive in and get a closer look at this often overlooked Patek Phillipe men’s watch.

Patek Philippe Neptune 5085

The Patek Philippe Neptune ref. 5085 was introduced in 1998 and only remained in the brand’s catalog for a short time until the mid-2000s. This particular Patek Neptune 5085/1A is a stainless steel model sporting a 37mm round case. Although it is classified as a Patek sports watch, its slim profile at just 10mm thick wears very much like a luxury dress watch too and can easily slip under a shirt cuff.

Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085
Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085

One of the most distinctive features of the Neptune is the steel bracelet featuring a fish-scale-like style–explaining the reasoning behind the name of the watch. Plus, the bracelet fits into the case seamlessly for an integrated bracelet look. Supremely supple and comfortable to wear, the high polish bracelet really sets this Patek apart from other men’s steel watches from the brand.

Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085
Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085

Housed within the steel case is a black dial with the upper portion displaying Arabic numerals while the bottom portion is reserved for a running seconds subdial and a date subdial. Tucked away in the date subdial sits a discreet moonphase display too. Furthermore, there’s also the power reserve indicator at 10 and 11 o’clock. Running around the periphery of the dial are square lume markers, which, along with the luminescent center hands, give just the right amount of shine in low light.

Petite Complication: Caliber 240 PS

If you turn the Patek Philippe Neptune around, you’ll be treated to a great view of the famous Patek Philippe Caliber 240 PS micro-rotor automatic movement working away.

Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085
Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Neptune 5085

In fact, it is the micro-rotor, crafted in 22k gold, that allows the Neptune to be so slender despite its numerous complications. The watch offers 48 hours of power reserve and beats at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour. In true Patek Philippe fashion, the movement is beautifully decorated, flaunting the prestigious Côtes de Genève striped finish.

 

With its striking bracelet design, asymmetrical dial, practical functions, short production run, and legendary caliber, the Neptune ref. 5085 by Patek Philippe is one luxury sports watch that you don’t come across every day.

 

Written by

Celine Simon

Celine is a freelance luxury watch writer who has enjoyed working in the horology industry for over ten years. Like many of the high-end timepieces she writes about, she comes from Switzerland—the heart of fine watchmaking. From Singapore to Montreal to Geneva to Dubai, Celine has lived all over the world but now calls Southern California home.